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One found with joy that the South Indian blend podi – a rough grind of fiery, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. This is accurate if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight barbecue sticks (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook 30 min
Serves two people

14 ounces waxy potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, cubed into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
Forty milliliters flavorless oil
One red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
Ten grams fresh mint leaves, minced
½ tsp flaky sea salt
100g natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then drain and pat dry.

Tip the spice seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Tip into a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Skewer the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and set aside until needed – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a medium bowl. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then cook the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the heat of your broiler, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more salt and the sauce on the side for serving.